GIAMPAOLO BABETTO ROBERT BAINES PETER BAUHUIS HILDE DE DECKER KARL FRITSCH PETER HOOGEBOOM JIRO KAMATA TAKASHI KOJIMA DANIEL KRUGER RENZO PASQUALE GERD ROTHMANN CARINA SHOSHTARY KETLI TIITSAR FLÓRA VÁGI TANEL VEENRE MANUEL VILHENA LISA WALKER ANNAMARIA ZANELLA
WORKS WITH AUTHOR
70 PIECES OF ART JEWELRY FROM A MUNICH COLLECTION.
By Katja Kraft
A necklace the size of a baby's bib, made from bark and leather. Or tiny little paintings on equally tiny little plates, put together to form a ring. What is created in Karen Pontoppidan's jewelry class at the Academy of Fine Arts in Munich is not just pretty jewelry. They are works of art that can be worn on the body. In technical jargon, this is called author's jewelry. In other words, pieces of jewelry that were made with artistic intent. Unlike thick clunkers, the value of the material is irrelevant.
When NEUMEISTER puts author jewelry up for auction in December, bidders will be able to purchase contemporary art and decorative accessories in one. A ring that wraps around the wearer's fingers like a snake, for example, or a brooch filled with tiny teakettles. Each one is unique and bears the unmistakable signature of its creator.
The first author decoration artists consciously wanted to break boundaries. It was in the sixties that the desire for social renewal manifested itself in all areas. Goldsmiths also began to reformulate their creative goals. Away from the purely decorative towards individualistic works with expressiveness and a recognizable personal signature. Soon, centers of author's jewelry emerged in Great Britain and German-speaking European countries, such as the Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Amsterdam, the Royal College of Art in London and the Munich Art Academy. Important professors led and still lead the jewelry class here. Hermann Jünger (1972 - 1990), for example, then Otto Künzli (1991 - 2014), one of the most important international author jewelry artists - and now for the first time a woman, Karen Pontoppidan.
The primary goal of this relatively young movement within the art of jewelry is creative freedom. It draws on other art genres in an open and unbiased way. Painting, sculpture, photography - or even conceptual art. Earrings become part of a wild bird performance; or rings, necklaces and bracelets can be found in gigantic installations. The word gigantic is quite appropriate for the author's jewelry. Even if the works are often extremely delicately crafted, their effect is usually all the more powerful. Anyone who wears author's jewelry is making a statement. Sometimes it is quite loud, even shrill, with a joke or political message.
At NEUMEISTER, for example, the "Point Pyramid Ring" by Japanese artist Takashi Kojima is now up for auction. Let's put it this way: Discreet is different. But what a magnificent piece the Japanese artist has created! This mini pyramid with a maxi effect can be worn on two fingers. A brilliant-cut blue topaz sparkles beneath the large pyramid-shaped rock crystal. A masterful blend of artistic author, high-quality fine jewelry and an enchanting cocktail ring.
In contrast, two other masterpieces up for auction appear fragile: Robert Baine's golden brooches. Various geographical shapes appear to grow here in 750 gold yellow. Like a golden plant or a mechanical device. Nature meets technology. In works like these, the Australian goldsmith-artist demonstrates the brilliance of his craftsmanship. It is no coincidence that he is represented in renowned collections around the world, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Margit Jäschke has also created magical plant-like sprouts in two brooches offered by NEUMEISTER. The freelance artist, who was awarded the art prize of the Bavarian Academy of Fine Arts in Munich in 2016, uses a green tourmaline in a faceted cushion cut in one brooch in a stylized flower shape and an amethyst slice in the second. Numerous small glass beads surround the gemstones like sparkling leaves on the flower's stigma. If you want to pin a little spring fever on your lapel during the dark days of winter: buy it now!
SEE THE WHOLE COLLECTION
A brooch with mirror glass and diamonds
Italy, Arquà Petrarca, circa 2003, GIAMPAOLO BABETTO (* Padua, 1947)