- Brosche in Form eines Falters mit Rubinen, Brillanten und Fensteremail
auction 385, Lot 1070
JEWELLERY
on 24 September 2019
Brosche in Form eines Falters mit Rubinen, Brillanten und Fensteremail
Differenzbesteuerung
A Ruby, Diamond and Enamel Brooch in the Form of a Moth
Germany, 1960s-1970s
18K yellow gold (750/-), stamped. Circa 18 brilliant-cut diamonds, altogether circa 0.20 carat, TCR (I-J), VS-SI1. 2 round, faceted rubies, together circa 0.35 carat. Blue, green, white and red plique-à-jour enamel. 1 small area of damage to a red/white panel in one of the wings.
Circa 5.3 x 5.1 cm. Circa 14.8 g.
Technical execution: with very fine hand craftsmanship fine gold bars are soldered together to form a n intricate framework. Then in an extremely complicated process, the gaps between the framework are filled with translucent enamel. This technique is considered the pinnacle of enamel craftsmanship.
Plique-à-jour enamel is very delicate and sensitive to pressure, making it very susceptible to damage.
This type of enamel has its own special charm thanks to the way that light is able to filter through the individual panels. The technique was developed in the Byzantine Empire in the 14th century. This elaborate technique was rediscovered during the Art Nouveau era, when craftsman experimented in creating jewellery and accessories taking advantage of the unique play of colour and light.
